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The Italian fashion house revealed its Spring-Summer 2015 haute couture collection on Wednesday, January 28 at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris. It was a show underscored by an ode to romantic love — seen in light and ethereal pieces — and by references to traditional Russian dress — seen in sturdier designs covered in elaborate motifs.

Valentino creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli presented a collection with two sides. One is romantic, with light and flowing fabrics. The other, with a more stoic feel, is inspired by the Russian countryside and delivers an array of traditional patterns, whether printed or embroidered.

“In some ways, you are flying when you are in love,” Chiuri said, apropos of a pair of tulle gowns, one embroidered with rainbows and the other with clouds of silver lamé. It was a beautiful sentiment, and we commend her for expressing herself so earnestly. Sincerity of Chiuri’s kind is a true rarity in this business. Nonetheless, the clothes were best when they weren’t wearing their heart on their sleeve. A velvet dress straight out of fair Verona in a luminous shade of light blue was striking in its simplicity. Its sisters, a caftan shape in quilted red velvet and a strappy black velvet style with a bodice in the shape of wings, were the show’s undisputed highlights—sophisticated, rich-looking, and grown-up. The gown with the molten gold bodice will surely be another favorite. Its skirt is stitched with a line from Dante’s Inferno, which is fitting. A girl would go to hell and back to get her hands on it.

For accessories, there are a few sandals, but the designers gave more prominence to ankle boots with patterns that match the rest of the look.


Photos: Yannis Vlamos/Indigitalimages.com

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