The Italian fashion house opened the second day of haute couture week on Monday at the Hôtel d’Evreux on the prestigious Place Vendôme in Paris.
Directed by Jean-Paul Goude, the show elicited much curiosity in the fashion world, namely due to Marco Zanini’s departure last November. Created in the absence of the Italian designer’s leadership, the Spring-Summer 2015 collection is a collaborative effort from the entire Schiaparelli design team.
While Versace chose to play up feminine curves in sensual, close-fitting gowns, Schiaparelli presented only a couple of tight dresses. Instead, the focus in this collection is on ample tailoring and fluid fabrics, with a particular emphasis on wide-legged pants. The waists are typically worn high, sometimes even just above the chest.
The fashion house’s signature design codes are well represented, as seen in the wide and prominent shoulders in a number of looks.
The prints are abstract, with loads of flashy colors (green, red, orange), a few darker shades (midnight blue, brown, pastel blue, black, white) and shimmery accents.
One of the most remarkable pieces was a blue pantsuit decorated with mirrors. But the real showstopper was Schiaparelli’s eccentric wedding gown: a trench-style mini-dress in glittery gold fabric, complete with a long train in the same material.
In the accessories department, the collection’s distinctive items include strappy sandals, ballerina slippers and vintage-style hats.
Photo: Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com