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Van Noten expressed with his collection a mood that is starting to sweep the industry: that of forgoing seasonal penchants in favor of individuality. Where personal expression of style, rather than being “on trend,” is the purest form of sartorial creativity.

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In all fairness, this has always been the way of Van Noten. But this season he upped the ante by producing a passionately beautiful lineup that pulled reference points from the Orient, military garb, the insect world and even a bit of ballroom.

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“It was all different woman,” said Van Noten after the show. He was referring to the fact that the soundtrack of the show consisted of snippets of famous female singers — like Beyoncé, Bjork, Courtney Love, and Debbie Harry — belting out some of their most well-known songs with a cappella bravado. But the designer could easily have been describing his own work.

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Photos: Yannis Vlamos

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