Van Noten expressed with his collection a mood that is starting to sweep the industry: that of forgoing seasonal penchants in favor of individuality. Where personal expression of style, rather than being “on trend,” is the purest form of sartorial creativity.
In all fairness, this has always been the way of Van Noten. But this season he upped the ante by producing a passionately beautiful lineup that pulled reference points from the Orient, military garb, the insect world and even a bit of ballroom.
“It was all different woman,” said Van Noten after the show. He was referring to the fact that the soundtrack of the show consisted of snippets of famous female singers — like Beyoncé, Bjork, Courtney Love, and Debbie Harry — belting out some of their most well-known songs with a cappella bravado. But the designer could easily have been describing his own work.
Photos: Yannis Vlamos