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Piled up, 18th Century hair, powdered faces and Miss Havisham tiered lace fishtail gowns that buttoned all the way up to Victorian collars added to the dark romance. This was McQueen at its most feminine, and in many ways, at its very best. Since Burton took the helm, the house has benefitted from a gentler hand, yes, it was still provocative, but without a hint of aggression.There were no hard edges, everything looked frayed, as though it had lived a life – which brings us back to that dying rose again.

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Imperfection can seldom have looked more beautiful than with models whose Guido-ed hair and Pat McGrath-ed makeup were the living Scissorhands-y embodiment of an Egon Schiele painting. Schiele’s twisty, fraught intensity echoed throughout the collection, but that intensity at last felt like a fit with Burton. She has never known when to stop with her manic attention to detail. Here, it all worked in an appropriately weird way.

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Photos: Marcus Tondo

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