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After a Fall collection that spectacularly starred a Frenchwoman on a rendezvous with romance, Christophe Lemaire took Hermès into the jungle for Spring. He’s not the first designer to inject steam heat into his show this week, but given last season’s scenario, it was hard to resist the notion that Lemaire’s woman was on the run now, hiding in Brazil or Vietnam from her love gone wrong.

Lemaire’s big influence was Henri Rousseau, the Frenchman who painted jungles without ever having seen them. The pendulous flora of Rousseau’s work were duplicated in the print that opened the show, with boots to match. The artist’s dark jungle green colored tops, shifts, crocodile culottes, and a wrapped leather coat. It was, in fact, color that marched this collection on: mulberry, teal, sky blue, sunset orange—intense shades that were new to Lemaire’s formerly neutral world. He applied them to long fluid shapes, ideal for a woman who values anonymity above all else. The mulberry jumpsuit paired with flip-flops? No chance anyone on the run will attract attention in that.

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