A few seasons back, Tomas Maier did a Bottega Veneta collection solely devoted to dresses. The one he showed today had a similarly sharp focus. Not a pair of pants or, for that matter, a jacket to be found. But it would be a mistake to call it a simple collection of sweaters, skirts, and dresses. Quite the opposite. What it was, in fact, was an in-depth exploration of cut and pattern-making, one that showcased Maier’s inventiveness on the one hand and his keen appreciation for fit on the other. It was outstanding.
Maier said something apparently straightforward but telling at his pre-fall presentation back in December: “It’s about putting the color in the right place to make a woman feel good. It’s what we’re here to do.” That rather humble statement applied to what he achieved today, too. Cases in point: He spliced geometric panels of burnt-red leather into the midriff of a black crepe dress, and he boldly arranged the striped swatches of crepe on another dress in ways that subtly shaped the body.