Like others this season, Alexis Mabille too seemed to be thinking about new ways to spin an old ball gown, and to this end, dove straight into the masculine wardrobe to find the condiment to add to his Fall collection, echoing the words of Susan Sontag he gave as preface to his run of show, “what is most beautiful in feminine women is something masculine.”
Of course, a dash of tailoring never harmed a couture collection, particularly when its creator also had – as recently as summer 2014 – a rather handsome albeit quieter mens line.
The opening look, a long tuxedo sheath in midnight hues, whetted appetites for his spin on that overplayed masculine-feminine dichotomy. Its asymmetrical play giving a sense of beautiful imbalance which epitomized the rest of the collection. To some extent, Mabille’s work caught fire where the masculine elements were clearest, like this first look, and further on, a long ombré sheath with its lapel-like neckline, a green bustier dress in the manner of a smoking and whose neckline revealed a nude corset. Lace played along the edges of a floor length shirt dress, changing its easy nature into something altogether dressier – if perhaps a little fussy. Adding a shirt under a bustier dress, he gave an idea of how nonchalant yet supremely elegant this twist could feel. Easily one of the most directional collection’s he’s created recently, it would have been all the more powerful and poetic had he not diluted it with outliers that left the ensemble feeling girlishly off-key.
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