Oh, those fickle fashion gods. Just when you think that completely natural skin—the kind of well-moisturized, I-don’t-need-a-stitch-of-foundation, fresh-faced beauty spotted on runway after runway—is the only real makeup trend of Paris Fashion Week, along comes the likes of Riccardo Tisci, Hedi Slimane, and Karl Lagerfeld to show you differently.
It’s “rock and rawness,” said Pat McGrath of the extended cat-eye shape she drew freehand backstage at Tisci’s request for the Givenchy show using a gray-brown “paint”—which upped the subversively chic vibe of the collection’s studded leather vests, lace-up gothic minidresses, and high-waisted leather pants. And McGrath wasn’t the only one feeling more graphic impulses in the past 48 hours. Makeup artist Dick Page’s tweaked, square-ish cat eye for Céline called for a few strokes of black eyeliner and had the look of an art-school student’s conceptual hand. Hedi Slimane asked makeup artist Aaron de Mey to sketch a tough, Debbie Harry–esque shape fit for his seventies rocker babe.
Like any self-respecting Parisian, newly appointed Sonia Rykiel designer Julie de Libran knows that a black kohl pencil is the quickest way pour être sexy. She sent her model troupe down the runway with a thick Left Bank rimming. And if there was any remaining doubt, just look at the Chanel runway, where a handful of Karl Lagerfeld’s street-smart fleet of models paired their stylish, practical gold flats with—what else?—a customized scribble of black pencil along their lash lines for spring.