Zac Posen /Fall 2012 RTW

We were swept away to Asia once more when Zac Posen showed us the continent through his high-glamour lens on Sunday night. In the promenade of the David H. Koch Theater at Lincoln Center—a superb venue for him because it can stand up to his sense of grandeur and space and also allows one to view the clothes in the environment in which they’ll likely be worn—Posen presented a strict point of view for fall.
Severe silhouettes are becoming a theme in the collections, played out by designers to varying degrees. The skirt suits and dresses Posen sent out, many with forties noir necklines and sharp shoulders, had waists nipped to the extreme. (Perfect for a figure like Dita Von Teese, who was sitting front row.) Once or twice, the super-slimness was juxtaposed with volume, like the cone-shaped embroidered sleeves of a vivid red floor-length dress.

The Asian influence was strongest in Posen’s color choice as well as in bamboo print and metallic floral fabrics, origami-like folds, and a few bright, oversize kimono-esque belts. That being said, the beautiful lily green and ivory evening coats looked as if they’d be equally at home in Downton Abbey. Posen definitely shares the Crawley clan’s flair for the dramatic, but he deserves a lot of credit for toning it down in recent seasons and focusing on clean and uncomplicated dresses that allow his careful, skilled tailoring and strong attention to detail to take center stage. Now it’d be great to see him loosen up a little

Source: www.vogue.com
Photos: Marcio Madeira/firstVIEW