Taking a page from her haute couture collection, Donatella revisited the idea of those arcs of gleaming steel to define a peplum or give greater emphasis to a bustline—like the lady of the House, the Versace silhouette is all about the hourglass.
Acid yellow and screaming orange punctuated the predominantly black-and-white palette, and the shaggy silken strands of alpaca added texture interest to a boxy jacket, whilst graphic little coats were spliced with panels of Oroton—Gianni Versace’s signature chain mail, lending them the air of a sword-bearer in a forties Hollywood epic.
VERSACE—picked out in jewels like the letters in a medieval illuminated manuscript—tumbled over satin sheaths, and the same motif lit up the runway when the lights were lowered for the finale numbers.
Using a technique evocative of Paco Rabanne’s sixties chain-linked discs and panels, Donatella used strips of rhodoid plastic, flashing crystal, and that signature chain mail to create this series of high glam minidresses and hobbling sheaths that seemed fashioned for a New Age Princess Leia.
Photo: Marcio Madeira/firstVIEW