Milan Fashion Week – Emilio Pucci / Fall 2012

Peter Dundas came down from fall’s smoldering, Tyrolean-themed mountain peak and headed into far more accessible, 1960s territory for resort. “It’s Marianne Faithfull in the Mick Jagger era,” he said of the sherbet-hued, shrunken, boyish suits that showed alongside broderie anglaise shifts and beaded frocks with strategically placed eyelet cutouts. “It’s sweet and innocent, but with a little bit of mischief.”

That’s not to say, however, that Dundas has foregone the psychedelic prints that the house is associated with. Rather, there were plenty of graphic, liquid-paillette heritage patterns (some of which had been reworked in an updated ikat technique) sun-faded to resort-appropriate effect. By cutting them into suits, long, sequined evening skirts, and billowing caftans, Dundas offered Pucci loyalists (or, as he describes them, “uptown girls going downtown”) who are planning city-bound getaways, a light, breezy collection with all of the house’s signatures. But it wasn’t all about looking back. That classic Pucci Marquise handbag was updated in shocking-neon pink and arresting highlighter yellow, which will guarantee that Pucci’s party girls command attention.

“Resort comes naturally to me,” said the designer, and it’s easy to believe him with his sun-bleached, windswept hair and laid-back demeanor. “I love creating clothes that move, which this season is all about.”

Source: www.vogue.com