Marchesa / Spring 2013 RTW

Those with long memories might care to remember that Marchesa’s debut collection, unveiled if I am not mistaken on Renée Zellweger at the London premiere of Bridget Jones: Edge of Reason in November 2004, had a distinctly Southern Asian theme, all Rajasthani sari silks and Jaipur jeweling. Many baubles and beads have been strewn across the cutting room floor since Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig launched their label, which has impressively grown to encompass big-night glamour, red-carpet dressing, and all manner of fantasy-fulfilling dresses for girls who just want to have fun. Revisiting that Indian theme showed how far this twosome has come. And their trip down memory lane—guided, swami-like, by the Beatles’s guru Maharishi Mahesh Yogi—resulted in a collision of the rarified and time-honored beading and embroidery skills of India, not to mention its wildly vivid color palette (chartreuse, garnet, fuchsia, coral, and, of course, pink) with the groovy countercultural swing of I-just-want-to-find-myself sixties London.

Keep that in mind, and it explains why some of those sari silk dresses had a fluttery cape overlay, or a Mod-ish shift shape to them, and were layered over capri pants. These were partnered with the shoe seen pretty much throughout the entire show, a brocade or jewel-encrusted low skinny-heeled Christian Louboutin sandal. (Yes, it finally looks like it’s curtains for the towering platform at night, but then I’ve written that before, and subsequently been proved oh so very wrong.) Elsewhere, this collection was at its best when the sari-folding was integrated into the silhouette itself, showcasing the rich diversity of shapes that can be conjured by this elegant draping of fabric onto the body—viz a fuchsia cocktail dress with a cascading hem, or a bordeaux tulle dress appliquéd with gold painted lace. Other times, the Indian theme was little more than a fragrant reminder—such as a peacock blue and turquoise paisley evening look that came embroidered with crystals, and which could swish through the night wherever it’s worn on the globe.