Gucci Resort 2012

What does a glossy, jet-set label do when the rest of the world is wringing their hands over the carbon footprint of flying coach? For starters, tone down the flowy, glamazon vibe and amp up the utilitarianism. Hold off on the chiffon and fur and try more sensible fabrics like cotton and knits. Skip the drama for something more sporty. That’ll get a house like Gucci as far as boxy, cropped python jackets and bright orange miniskirts. But this isn’t a label for eco-warriors.

You’d be hard pressed to convince the Italians to give up their oversize sunglasses, severe ponytails, and short skirts, all of which are present in Frida Giannini’s resort collection for the house. But she managed to inject a bit of practicality into a season that has traditionally been about escapism. Yes, that is a citrus-hued leather dress, but the rolled-up sleeves indicate a subtle T-shirt treatment, and the hemline respectably hits right at the knee. In Gucci parlance, that’s practically activewear.

For the most part, Giannini’s new shapes—square and sharp—really worked. The structured minis are particularly appealing as are the straight, colorful, cropped pants. The added athleticism doesn’t necessarily agree with a pair of white and purple floral-print trousers, but it is awfully hard to make a drawstring waist look rich.

Yet Giannini’s too smart to go too far with this sensible trend and thinks that a slim tuxedo and several shimmering, golden, long dresses still look right for evening. Although even here, they’re free of bells and whistles—just adorned with giant, detachable metallic flower clips.

Photos: Courtesy of Gucci